February 22, 2014 Milan
Familiarity with Marras' work leads to the inevitable conviction that he is a frustrated movie director, today's show being a case in point. Each outfit was like a piece of an expanding narrative, light, dark, then light again. Inevitably, there was too much. Marras spills—he can fill a sketchbook with drawings over the course of a single lunch—so a judicious edit is anathema. Here, for instance, the sweet floral embroideries and appliqués that closed the show diffused the impact of the handful of stunning needle-punched outfits that preceded them, particularly the military hybrids.
On the other hand, Marras has been making an earnest effort to keep things more accessible. His favorite silhouette was an A-line. There was charming knitwear and even his own graphic remodel of a track suit. And the shoes were some of the best flats you'll see in a season where flat shoes dominate.