February 22, 2014 Milan
On the small scale: mink buttons on a double-breasted jacket, and a mink ribbon belt cinching a single-breasted one. Little details like that were charming enough for you to look past the tailoring's sometimes challenging proportions. And on the grand scale: a V-neck sheath in charcoal silk jacquard laminated with bronze Deco roses, and, for something a bit more extravagant, a wool overcoat in that same shade of gray embroidered in three-dimensional steel flowers. Both pieces showcased their flair for embellishment yet retained a sense of restraint.
That was less true of a dress in sheer organza featuring mink patch pockets and dense clusters of crystals. See-through dresses have become a thread in Milan, but we're not buying them. Elsewhere, it wasn't quite clear how Deco or Visconti apply to a cropped leather jacket and pencil skirt layered over another jacket with ribbed athletic cuffs and waistband. Those looks were points against Aquilano.Rimondi, but overall the good outweighed the bad here.