Right before his show, Ashish Gupta announced that he's doing another Topshop collaboration—not a few pieces this time, but a full collection with around thirty looks, including swimwear. Gupta had been in his native India practically up to the eleventh hour before his Fall Ashish show. He may want to consider making that a habit given the result it had on his collection today.

For such a shy man, Gupta is an amazingly flamboyant showman, and that came through in a show that carried a now-expected fever pitch drama, superb soundtrack, and high-octane love from the audience. The first dress got the crowd excited—a shimmery pink sequin gown that had Lily Allen snapping her camera like crazy in the front row. Gupta is well known for his love of sequins, but today he surprised with pearls in abundance. They were his new sequins, and he elegantly placed them on pieces that had something he hasn't been known for until now: silhouette. The baggy, shapeless looks from seasons past were gone. Here there was more structure in blouses, trousers, and dresses, especially in a prom queen tulle skirt that had uncharacteristically sharp lines.

Gupta used LED lights that sparkled and shimmered on platform trainers and underneath the layers of his tulle skirts. Sticking to the twinkly effect, he also experimented with tinsel-silver threads hung off a tracksuit that, again, had a more refined shape than in previous outings. Said Gupta backstage: "If I was going to do a jogging suit, I wanted it to be the sharpest one ever." Despite the sequined denim, tinsel, and overall sparkle, this wasn't just a lighthearted romp. Gupta surprised with some extraordinary tissue-paper-like looks: The craftsmanship involved was truly impressive. Maybe that's why he holed up in India for so long.