February 25, 2014 Paris
More loosely, Viramontes' eighties heyday was reflected in the show's silhouette: the pronounced shoulders, the bum-grazing minis, pants with pleats (a first for Vaccarello). But if the clothes glanced backward, they didn't look retro. The turtleneck dickeys paired with even the sexiest of looks added a cool, modernizing touch.
Besides, Vaccarello's signatures are strong. The asymmetric hems on miniskirts and the hip-high slits on longer ones made this collection look identifiably his own. It was easily his most well-rounded so far, with a new emphasis on tailoring and outerwear. Vaccarello has been criticized in the past for his too-specific point of view. Let's face it, hip-bone-baring dresses are for the very few. But take another look at the shearling jackets and coats he opened this show with: They'll appeal to a lot of different women, 6-foot-tall super-babes and otherwise.