This year has already shaped up as a big one for Barbara Casasola
. Last month, Casasola presented as the guest designer at Pitti in Florence—quite a coup, given the fledgling status of her brand. The clothes she showed today both affirmed the attention she's been getting and suggested that it may be a touch premature. The collection was notable for its focus on daywear—not typically an emphasis for Casasola, and a category she's still getting her arms around, it seems. Trim suits and jumpsuits in gray wool had a nice sense of polish; on the other hand, the proportions of her double-breasted blazers and culottes were a little off. That said, it was nice to see Casasola trying to work in a looser vein—something she did with more success in the sheer dresses, tops, and skirts in painterly color combinations. The pieces were designed with a kind of scaffolding of stripe in the fabric, which brought Casasola's mistress-of-discipline sensibility to bear on the otherwise soft silhouettes; these were easily the best looks here. All in all, this show represented another advance for Casasola. Stay tuned.