Calla Haynes' chow chow, Lilybear, is pretty famous in Paris, where the designer says the little dog is photographed about "20 times a day" outside of her studio in the Marais. So Haynes chose to dedicate much of her Fall Calla collection to Lily, who was the star of not only a gray sweatshirt, but also a series of colorful prints that appeared on dresses, blouses, and even a pair of skinny trousers.

But Haynes' references didn't end at the dog, as cute as she may be. "I like to make up a story each season, and this one was about a brokenhearted girl living in Paris, who moves to Nashville," the designer said at her Saturday night presentation. In came the country-Western nods, particularly a skinny suit done in a minty blue jacquard. "It was a fun way to explore more menswear," Haynes said of the look, which was inspired by the style of the late Porter Wagoner, whose variety show, which ran from 1961 to 1981, launched Dolly Parton's career. Simultaneously, Haynes was also thinking about the Memphis Group, whose postmodern aesthetic informed the graphic quality of the prints. She could have cut a few of the looks, particularly a collared number in the aforementioned minty blue jacquard that read too sweet, but all in all it was an exuberant collection that didn't rely on Haynes' penchant for painterly prints, which have defined her previous efforts.