February 11, 2014 New York
For Fall, Danan and Kern found themselves taken with the work of L.A.-based photographer Amanda Demme, and their commission to have her shoot the lookbook this season resulted in a much more dynamic creative collaboration than either party anticipated. As Danan explained, showing the new collection by appointment today, she and Kern found themselves designing pieces with Demme's painterly photographic style in mind—an influence that resulted in Co's most romantic, most accomplished collection yet. There was a strong whiff of flamenco here, witnessed in everything from the oversize roses—Co's first print—to the prevalence of ruffled sleeves to a calfskin bolero jacket with tonal bead embroidery. More generally, the clothes tapped into that flamenco duende—the "deep song," in Federico García Lorca's phrase, of limitless yearning. That was especially true of the sober, mostly black looks for evening, on which there was an unusually strong emphasis this time out.
But all that Spanish-ness was more leitmotif than theme; as always, the main point was wearable, sophisticated, trend-immune clothes. And the standouts in that regard had to be the knits, like the luxe cable cardigan that walked a line between sweater and outerwear. "Practical but poetic" was how Danan described the tone she and Kern were aiming to hit, and that just about nails it. Perhaps a season off from filmmaking allowed them to center all their creative energy on the clothes, with visibly positive results. Still, you do wonder about the flamenco film that might have been.