Although Costello Tagliapietra
's show notes cited inspiration from sci-fi heroines, it seemed to be the Brooklyn designers' down-to-earth companions that best served the Fall 2014 collection. "It's how we see our friends wear our clothes," said Robert Tagliapietra. "Everyone always wants our sweaters. They'll wear a dress, but confiscate our cardigans by the end of the night." So the designers reimagined their own grandfatherly button-ups in forest green futuristic "fur," made by brushing the back of alpaca tweed. Those kimono-sleeved cardigans and coats—occasionally with shiny contrast piping—were layered over dresses in modern marbled prints. Some dresses undulated with the body, thanks to sinuous seams and strategically placed shirring, while others swung easily around the knees; several did both.
Costello and Tagliapietra also continued their march toward separates with lots of options. Intricately draped skirts sat high on the waist, while low-slung "track pants" with gathered leather waistlines and cuffs offered cool, casual ease—and felt more in keeping with the collection than cropped tuxedo pants and nip-waisted jackets. Perhaps the designers were trying to channel feminine strength with those more structured pieces, but that feeling came across more clearly in the softer looks. If a sci-fi future includes more fabric innovation like that hairy brushed alpaca, we'll take it.