Designer Custo Dalmau loves a busy pattern. But for Fall, instead of relying on clashing prints to get the Custo Barcelona message across, he played with texture and the idea of a guillotine splitting looks straight down the middle. A camel skirtsuit, for instance, was done on one side in wool and the other in a shiny faux fur. A set of men's and women's overcoats was split personality too: One side was a light tan, the other a zebra print. When Dalmau did incorporate more colorful patterns—one a digital Gaudí depiction on gold lamé fabric—they were grounded by black turtlenecks and tights. "I wanted to create something optical," the designer said the day before his show, in his studio underneath the Custo Barcelona store in Soho.

The collection also aimed to capture a single fashion moment: 1980. It was after disco but before the power suit, which meant people didn't know exactly what to wear. Dalmau did his best with a shaggy black coat dipped in pink and camel. It was a piece that could easily be found on the streets of New York, or even London. The rest, as usual, was designed for the brand's very specific customer, who probably does not reside in one of those cities.