This year Daks celebrates its 120th anniversary. The temptation when tasked with designing a collection for a brand with such a long history is to dip too heavily into the archives and end up with a mishmash of greatest hits. Daks creative director Filippo Scuffi checked all the boxes, not least of which was an exploitation of the Daks "house check." It appeared on lapels, as fringes, in tube beads, in sequins, and even as a bearskin, which certainly hit you over the head with the heritage message (a member of the team suggested it will not be produced beyond the runway).

Scuffi was at his strongest when restricting himself to camel knits; stretched extra long into a slinky dress or in second-skin double-face cashmere, they captured the streamlined, refined attitude you associate with the brand. But then the collection ended with a floor-sweeping knit gown inflated by a crinoline. Not even the lustrous leather opera gloves—which offered retro-futuristic C-3PO appeal—could distract from the blanket-over-a-birdcage effect.

It was curious to watch Scuffi tackle the trenchcoat, manipulating it into a strapless dress or gathering its sturdy material into a bustle. One wonders if women want to dress in such a deliberately throwback manner (never mind the impracticality, which was ironic given the coat's original purpose). Moreover, the trench remixing invited an elephant into the room—a very large, checked elephant—and it drew attention away from the label's impressive milestone.