A swing through Diesel Black Gold
's backstage dressing area revealed silvery leather jackets with the quilted proportions of space suits. So Andreas Melbostad had watched Gravity,
then? Turns out, Alfonso Cuarón's spellbinding movie didn't figure into it; the designer hasn't seen it. "It has always been a dream of mine to do a sort of astronaut-futuristic collection," he explained. Melbostad has never been one to venture too far out there, though. He had a look at Phi and he stuck to it, and he's very quickly established some signatures at Diesel. In keeping with that, this collection wasn't so much futuristic—either by our contemporary standards or by nostalgic sixties ones—as it was sharp. Save for the rounded proportions of shiny leather parkas (positively great, by the way, with their substantial shearling linings), it was all hard edges, down to the studded square metal discs embellishing the pleats on miniskirts and stretchy dresses. Those discs were reminiscent of ones he used last season. You want to see Melbostad push his limits a bit more in that regard. But you'll hear no complaints from this direction about his tailoring. He makes a mean, mean pair of trousers. This season, they're slung extra low on the hips, cut lean through the thigh with some space-suit seaming at the knee, and unzipped at the ankle for a bit of a flare. Outer space, here on earth, anywhere, there's only one word for those pants: cool.