David Koma is a rigorous cutter whose prowess has been noticed by stylists—very recently, Gwyneth Paltrow, Miranda Kerr, and a clutch of other celebs have been wearing his looks on the red carpet. His Fall outing featured the kind of high-precision designs that caught the eye of the powers that be at Mugler, who recently tapped him as creative director. Accordion-pleated leather skirts, cage-like neck details, and the harnessing that he used last season were back. Colors were muted: It's no secret that Koma is not a prints man, so blacks, a deep purple coat, and a touch of pony skin provided the only bit of frippery.

Where Koma excelled was in a few looks of delicate leather mesh in a grid pattern that showed his artistry and craftsmanship at once. Where he went wrong was in the sameness of it all. The pieces were so similar to last season's: familiar silhouettes, the body-con harness dress, the abundance of leather, the skater skirt. The main difference was that this collection was even sterner. Perhaps Koma is holding back a bit because of his debut for Mugler for resort. Maybe then there will be more fresh ideas. In the meantime, it would be good to move the needle a bit—he certainly has the skill to do so.