February 17, 2014 London
Where Koma excelled was in a few looks of delicate leather mesh in a grid pattern that showed his artistry and craftsmanship at once. Where he went wrong was in the sameness of it all. The pieces were so similar to last season's: familiar silhouettes, the body-con harness dress, the abundance of leather, the skater skirt. The main difference was that this collection was even sterner. Perhaps Koma is holding back a bit because of his debut for Mugler for resort. Maybe then there will be more fresh ideas. In the meantime, it would be good to move the needle a bit—he certainly has the skill to do so.