didn't exactly reinvent the wheel this season. But then, why mess with a perfectly good wheel? Olowu celebrates the tenth anniversary of his brand later this year, and the more seasoned he gets, the more he limits himself to fine-tuning adjustments to the look of his clothes. This season, the adjustment was inspired by 1920s-era furniture designer Elizabeth Eyre de Lanux and the Dada set—Man Ray, Schiap, etc.—who were some of her cohorts in Paris. There were a handful of vintage touches, like the prim organza collar on a silk print dress, and a handful of surreal ones, like the fur pockets on a coat. Silhouettes had a hint of Deco about them, and a recurring print—also executed as a jacquard knit—was directly inspired by the look of Eyre de Lanux's inlay woodwork. But these were all niceties; there was hardly a piece in this collection you wouldn't immediately identify as Olowu's, whether a tailored jacket with 3-D inverted seams in back, or the full skirt patchworked from fabrics ranging from vintage Bianchini brocade to an African artisan print harvested from Olowu's mother's house. After a decade of doing his thing, this designer is in no doubt as to what his thing is.