is having a James Turrell moment. After inspiring the label's Pre-Fall collection, the renowned artist's light installations also informed this season's jewel-toned color palette. The new Fall lineup addressed a current trend in the form of relaxed suits (in either malachite green or graphic windowpane checks) that featured slouchy, cropped trousers and a double-breasted jacket for a bit of flattering definition at the waist. Patterned furs, leather pieces, and a classic camel coat also felt of-the-moment. Elsewhere, design director Daniel Wingate experimented with several newer silhouettes for the brand, such as scalloped lace tea-length skirts. Pretty, painterly winter florals looked relatively fresh on matching silk separates but seemed somewhat stuffy on printed organza cocktail frocks and a strapless evening gown. Speaking of eveningwear, Escada has started putting more emphasis on its red-carpet program, having recently outfitted Edie Falco and Helen Mirren for the Emmys and SAG Awards, respectively. According to a rep, the vibrant, draped duchesse numbers here were created for one of this year's Oscar nominees.