February 19, 2014 Milan
With Malevich and Delaunay for inspiration, there was a serious graphic punch to Puglisi's clothes this season, but color and embroideries have been his signatures from the start. What pushed his story forward were the new silhouettes: less body-con, more generous—not that Lindsey Wixson's opening color-blocked T-shirt and tiny embellished mini gave any of that away. Puglisi may still be at his best and most believable when he's working a bit of cling. Either that or embellishing a tough-chic leather jacket. Tutu skirts keyed in to the Ballet Russes theme, but they were a bit too exclamatory for real life off the stage. The easy volumes of knee-length plissé skirts and loose-fitting crewneck sweaters were the timeliest developments in this sometimes repetitive collection; they were not only in keeping with the major trends of the season, but also a smart way to spread Puglisi's DNA further into the daytime category. Best in show: a long-sleeve, flaring A-line dress inlaid with energetic swoops and slashes of red, lavender, yellow, black, white, and green.