Gary Graham has a distinct viewpoint that is decidedly sepia-tinted. Instead of chasing after current trends, the designer operates according to his own codes, and continues to draw inspiration from history. His clothes often have a modern heirloom quality—as though you might find them in an upscale antique store or swank Victorian-themed bar. This season, Graham spent hours delving into the textile archives at the Met, and came away thinking about what he called "fragments of the Middle East." The saturated prints found here on silk tops and slim leggings nodded to ancient Turkish rugs and Byzantine tapestries. Those patterned pieces were layered with sequined dresses and felted jacquard wraps. "Everything is kind of oversized and drapey," said Graham, pointing out a canvas twill coat with an exaggerated cocoon shape, which could also be worn upside down (as it was styled here) for an eclectic effect. Graham's references aren't always so esoteric. Old snapshots of Keith Richards exiting the Stones' private jet gave rise to the collection's standout piece: a curly lamb jacket with a shellacked leather finish that had a worn-in look and far-reaching appeal.