Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear
February 26, 2014 Paris
Marcel Marongiu arrived at the colors for his Fall Guy Laroche collection after viewing the Serge Poliakoff show that recently ended at the Musée d'Art Moderne in Paris. Cinnamon, teal, deep green, and deep purple were among the intriguingly muddy hues favored by the painter. (Marongiu, who paints in his spare time, seemed less interested in the vermilion, rose, and ocher that would have rounded out Poliakoff's preferred palette.) But the artist's modernist, irregular shapes didn't figure into the Guy Laroche silhouette story, which for the most part appeared more streamlined than last season's tiers and tulips (one exception: two shaggy Mongolian sheep fur coats). Marongiu, who has been the artistic director of Guy Laroche since 2007, softened his volumes with long accordion-pleat skirts and a floor-grazing sack dress, while keeping pants lean and cropped. The designer drew attention to garment construction with raw-seamed edges that projected outward from felted wool tops, and pinched waists on dress coats. Lacquered leather and calf hair were surface-treatment alternatives for outerwear. For evening, Marongiu introduced black sequin polka dots embroidered onto tulle sheaths sans underpinnings. In case this was too much provocation, he showed how they could be worked into LBD variants with solid knit layers and a soigné coat. The fact that you can add Guy Laroche to the list of brands flaunting exposed nipples for Fall is the most obvious proof that it has relevance today. But don't discount the less risqué looks; they'll hold up much longer.