February 28, 2014 Paris
Postshow, he insisted all that Pre-Fall preamble was just a starting point for his new collection. He'd gone beyond, to abstract the abstraction. Perhaps that's why there were a few too many droopy folding bits, a bit too much unresolved formlessness. And yet Chalayan does languor with ingenuity and wit. The final organza dresses featured panels that peeled back to reveal silvery, sinewy threads, almost intestinal, except they were beautiful. There were a couple of other gauzy gowns with an intriguing but mysterious texture that, on closer examination, turned out to be press-on fingernails in a full spectrum of finishes. Rihanna has been all over Paris in the past few days, but if she truly wants clothes that are a conversation piece, she need look no further.