If you want to know what the contemporary floors at major department stores will look like in six months' time, go to a Helmut Lang show. Nicole and Michael Colovos' collection is a top seller at chains like Saks, Neiman Marcus, and Barneys. They were all in the front row tonight, and they'll be buying into the Colovoses' new message about texture in a big way. Like other designers this week, the husband-wife team have fallen hard for multi-ply knits, teddy bear fabrics, and fluffy mohair. "Spring was about flat, clean, crisp fabrics, and we wanted to flip that on its head," Nicole said backstage. That was never truer than in the case of two sweatshirts made from fur laser-cut in a deep, three-dimensional pattern. White or orangey red, put on one of those and you'll never take it off.

One key to the show's success was its lightness. All the layers could've weighed things down, but even a funnel-neck, cocoon-shaped shearling jacket looked lofty, as if it had been injected with air. The Colovoses kept that theme going, cutting tunic dresses and the stovepipe pants they were worn with in graphic photoprints of the surface of Mars. Tailored separates in complementary solids—camel with red, or white with black—rounded out the collection. They'll appeal to the label's more minimally minded customers, but they didn't come close to those fur sweatshirts.