Hervé Léger by Max Azria
February 08, 2014 New York
Elsewhere, there was a cage-corset story that didn't always translate, along with some cutouts that gaped below belly buttons—more windows than keyholes. More successful in the skin-exposure department were long-sleeved crop tops paired with high-waisted skirts to reveal fashion's current favorite swath of flesh: the upper midriff. Silver and gunmetal beading further contoured several silhouettes, and jacquard knits gave some bandage fabrics geometrically patterned surfaces. Others looked almost reptilian, but the most unexpected animal appeal came from glossy black feathers trimming dresses' shoulders and peeking out from petticoats. (A friend quipped that those shoulders recalled The Hunger Games' Katniss Everdeen, and she wasn't wrong.)
Backstage after the show, creative director Lubov Azria may have been her own best advertisement, wearing a perforated black top of Léger's signature fabric that fit more like a sweatshirt than a bandage, with a matching A-line skirt. She said she was interested in transformation this season, the way a video game heroine begins as a digital character and then "turns into a bird, then a fox," as she moves through different rooms. That went some way toward explaining the superheroine appearance of a single catsuit, as well as the fact that those feathered pieces could be transformed, or rather, removed, via zippers. "You can't dry clean things with feathers!" said Azria. Perhaps there was some practicality here after all.