February 11, 2014 New York
The effect was almost animated. Flashes of supersize houndstooth accented a hunter green sateen blazer, as well as its matching drop-crotch trouser. The print showed up again in the form of a pailette-embroidered appliqué on a white and green dress with deep, origamilike skirt pleats. But while the houndstooth was like an electric jolt, the pinstripe was done in classic shades of gray. (That bastion of corporate fashion has become a trend with sticking power, and Gurung is surely taking advantage.) The stripey standout was a pair of skinny drop-crotch pants, worn with a white high-neck sweatshirt and an oversize ivory angora coat. In the midst of it all came a series of monochromic looks in a blue color Gurung called "ultramarine." The skirtsuit—with a matching shirt underneath—owed everything to its coolly sculptural pockets.
Gurung has done a good job of keeping his ICB girl—"curious, adventurous, slightly defiant"—on track since he was appointed creative director in 2011. He might call her all those things, but what he's really doing is making clothes for women who work in an office but don't necessarily want (or have) to wear a standard suit. And so far, he's on track.