Isabel Marant's capsule collection for H&M sold out in less than a day back in November—done and dusted. Lately, though, her runway shows have felt a little tentative; they haven't quite delivered the Marant magic the way they used to. Today, Devo's "Girl U Want" was ringing out from the speakers, and Marant got her groove back. The new collection was streetwise and sexy in the ways we expect from her. She didn't exactly chart a new course, but she tried unexpected things.

First up: a belted, high-waisted, loose-fitting, laced-at-the-side pant that was just about as night and day with her familiar low-slung skinnies as you could get. Those pants set the tone. "I never have feelings for fancy, frilly things in the winter," Marant said backstage. "I like very comfortable, warm clothes—things you can go around being secure in." So out went Spring's pretty pink ruffles and in came army-green everything: belted jackets, oversize sweaters, sparkly sequined minis, and more cool-looking slouchy pants in soft quilted leather. Somehow, Marant has managed to avoid grunge until now, but late to the party or not, the plaid shirts and pants she had here jibed with her repertoire. The exuberantly folded and peaked shoulders of a couple of tweed jackets weren't as easy a fit. Still, it was good to see Marant stretch a bit.