Weimar? Why not? The German cabaret scene may not seem a conventional starting point for a J.Crew womenswear collection. All that debauchery! All that desperation! Not quite a match for the peppy note ye olde Crew usually likes to strike. But as every good painter knows, darker colors add dimension. And Tom Mora used his Weimar references in precisely that way, as a deepener. You could pick up the influence in the collection's dropped-waist silhouettes, and in the black-backed florals, and in the touch of flapper fringe applied to a miniskirt or a sweater. There was also something unusually sensual about the use of texture here—for instance, a pair of velvet sweats or the profusion of blue, black, and cream brushed mohair sewn onto an otherwise docile gray sweater. But whatever moodiness was at work here was just an accent on the usual—and let's face it, essentially perfected—upbeat J.Crew look, which evolved this season to include puffer jackets and jaunty cropped pants. This collection also marked the second edition of the J.Crew/Sophia Webster shoe collaboration, which resulted in many cheerful pairs of spindly heels. Even Marlene Dietrich would have giggled with pleasure over those.