A pair of artist Aaron Young's sculptures set the scene for Julien David's new collection. Mangled barricades dipped in 24-karat gold, they were a visual metaphor for his elevated streetwear. David paid special attention to fabrics this season, and they gave a lift to recognizable shapes—sweatshirts, tees, track pants. Metal-wire fringe was the flashiest of his experiments: A long T-shirt dress was looped with six kilometers of the stuff, and it took the machine that did it twenty-four hours, yet it retained the ease inherent to the silhouette. Same goes for the texturized black leather flight jacket and A-line skirt. It took a heck of a lot of work to get the leather to pucker the way it did, but you wouldn't know it from the cool street vibes it gave off. (Credit also goes to the collection's fuzzy-sided flatform shoes and headgear, a surprisingly cute hybrid of bucket hat and baseball cap.)

Those vibes are the key to David's ascent from 2012 ANDAM winner to Tokyo store owner in 2014. He also just signed on with Net-a-Porter. This collection should keep the love flowing in both directions. But we bet the e-tailer asks him for a little more of the sparkly metal fringe pieces and slightly less black. Because he was so involved with fabric development here, David more or less avoided color, and you couldn't help but miss it.