Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear
February 05, 2014 New York
For a designer who built her name on pretty negligees and underpinnings, Josie Natori can cut a mean coat. Her new Fall collection, which was inspired by "the richness of Russia's cultural heritage," offered covetable outerwear for every day of the week. Natori opened with a series of dark gray looks whipped up from a double bonded jersey that yielded strong, sleek shapes. Admittedly, that colorway wasn't much of a pick-me-up following a morning spent slushing through the city's sidewalks. But the show quickly transitioned to a monochromatic winter white moment, including a beautiful felted wool cape, then kept the ball rolling with a handful of tie-dye-effect toppers that seemed like bait for fashion editorials. In general, the variety of lush materials and textures incorporated here—embossed pony velvet, knitted rabbit fur, panne velvet, jet beading—was admirable in its own right. Natori featured intricate cutwork details on crimson coats, as well as on a decorative kerchief and its matching belt, which you could only imagine someone like Ulyana Sergeenko wearing. While the lineup could've stood to lose a few looks (not to mention those distracting neck accessories), it suggested that Natori means business when it comes to developing her ready-to-wear vision.