For Fall, Joie
creative director and CEO Serge Azria dialed down the flirt factor and gave us a twenty-first-century gamine. "Usually, my inspirations come from traveling or a place, but this time it was more of a script," Azria said during the brand's presentation. Spurred by the vision of a moody girl wandering Paris' most picturesque streets (no doubt a lost Godard great there), he sent out a handsome and neatly edited new offering. "She's not from the couture world; she's just beautiful, effortless. She wears whatever she likes," Azria said. It's a familiar enough refrain from designers evoking their muse; in the case of this one, she likes things a bit à la garçonne
, and quietly luxe. Perhaps it was a stroke of marketing genius to show the collection a stone's throw from the Hudson, with strong winds coming in off the water as one departed to hammer home the looks' smartly cozy appeal. There were plenty of camel and cream, substantial knits and unfussy cashmere (the latter in one particularly standout, slightly oversize, charcoal biker jacket). Lots of deft proportion play, too, like long flannel menswear coats, and even a modestly cropped sweater or two. Sportier elements included a classic anorak and a parka, which paired nicely with chunky brogues. Azria put it thus: "For Joie, it is a little more American casual." Make no mistake, the molds here are still more or less intact, but Joie's latest is full of elegant, eminently wearable offerings. All told, Azria's mercurial Parisian seems to be good for the brand.