February 11, 2014 New York
And indeed, other than the eggshell tux jackets thrown over the shoulders of a few models—which conjured images of the seventies style icon in that white suit—the reference was abstract. Instead, Packham focused on injecting a Jagger-tinged eccentricity into her pretty gowns and glittery separates. Ball skirts were done in taffeta—to add "punch," the designer said—and paired with relaxed V-neck sweaters covered in sequins or sweatshirt-shape tops accented with chunky crystals. Gowns, too, were relaxed: One shell-neck burgundy number hung stick-straight, with lines of bugle beads elongating the body. Packham's "daywear" this time around was more like cocktail attire, although a certain kind of woman could take the wide-leg satin trousers in a dusky mauve from late lunch to late-night dinner.
Packham isn't too obsessed with everything hanging together perfectly; she uses her color palette to pull it all in rather than sticking with just a few silhouettes. Generally, that strategy works for her, although this time it felt like the show could have ended before it did. (There were a lot of different looks to take in.) But she achieved what she set out to communicate.