Jil Sander Navy
February 11, 2014 New York
At the more tailored end were jacquard dresses and skirts with diagonal pleats that gave them modernity and movement. There was more pattern than one expects from Navy, by way of blown-up houndstooth jacquard dresses and painterly checked pants in silk and velvety fine-wale corduroy. Those pieces got some graphic pop shown with little hooded zip-up jackets in felt-bonded neoprene. A rich orange version, its bracelet sleeves curved a little like a wetsuit's, recalled Nicolas Ghesquière's surfy-scuba days at Balenciaga. Those performance fabric pieces—there was a smooth-surfaced techno fleece sweatshirt in the same color—are likely winners, especially with Alexander Wang setting the tone for seriously sporty outerwear. But for such a tight collection, there was a little something for everyone. A classic coat in brushed black mohair had a beautifully furry texture and would look great with those suede booties.