The culture of the locker room and all things sport was the starting point for Jeremy Scott this season. That much was self-evident from the fuzzy football-jersey maxi dresses that opened the show, not to mention the basketball leathers, tube-sock knits, mesh tops, and scoreboard prints. That's a collection Scott can design in his sleep, pretty much, but what elevated this one was the designer's way of presenting all this machismo as part of a kind of theater of cruelty. No, no, Scott was not trying to make a big philosophical point here—that's not his way—but there was something mean and violent under the surface of this presentation. It manifested in the confrontational Madballs knits, and it was there in the remarkable corset skirts and bustiers that appeared to have been fashioned from football pads. The Marquis de Sade would have been a fan of those pieces; he probably would have wielded a whipping towel in the locker room with some major panache. Not everything had to do with the subversive element of torture, however. As Scott pointed out afterward, those fuzzy knits marked a real evolution for him, since he doesn't usually do so much texture and he wasn't sure what the girls walking the show would make of them. "Carlyne said, 'Don't worry,'" he recalled, quoting his legendary stylist, Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele. "She said, 'They’ll love them; they're just so…cozy.'"