February 15, 2014 London
That's not to say there weren't some very forceful looks here. The group of corduroy skirts and turtlenecks, with sculpted sleeves and built-in bustiers, got this show off to a strong start. The triumvirate of funnel-neck tops and long skirts that followed kept up the momentum. But there were also more than a few looks that felt atypically aimless—as though Anderson had stopped at a rather arbitrary point in his experiments with contortion and said, "Well, good enough." To wit, the long dresses with a bit of twisted shearling about the top, or the drop-waist dresses with folded collars. You just weren't sure what woman Anderson was seeing, or what story he was telling, with these clothes.
Which raises a larger question about Anderson's MO. In future seasons, it would be nice to see him working with the female form a little more than he has of late, rather than resisting it so much. There does come a point when tortured silhouettes make you wonder how a designer feels about the women he's meant to be dressing. In some ways, this was one of Anderson's warmest collections; there was an earthiness to the textures that was welcome. But in other respects, this collection seemed so detached and so all about shape-making, it felt a little cold.