There's often a divided nature about Kaufmanfranco collections. At their best, Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco walk a fine line between sexy and restrained, flashy and minimal. Backstage before their Fall show, the designers summarized this season's artful contrasts: "If it was going to be indulgent, it was going to be very restrained—more badass, but a little good girl, in keeping with the DNA of who we are." The first look out was a sleek white wrap dress cut from a flattering, compact material that hugged all the right curves. Granted, DVF had a lock on the wrap dress category this week, but Kaufmanfranco's sharp take on the iconic style kicked things off on a high note. The duo continued to update classic staples such as tuxedo jackets, pencil skirts, and slim sheaths (in either double-face wool or napa leather) with discreet cutouts, high slits, and clean metallic accents. A "glacial blue" series felt particularly fresh, "like the icy top of a martini," Franco said.

Moving into eveningwear, the designers channeled a slight nineties vibe with long bias-cut slips they said were a tribute to Kate Moss. One in herringbone-printed silk had graphic appeal topped with a matching wool duster coat. Meanwhile, a similar periwinkle-colored number felt modern paired with a gauzy cashmere pullover that shrugged off the model's shoulder. Casual yet sophisticated, these standout slips added a needed softness to the lineup, and encouraged ample layering. "We wanted that intimate lingerie feel but also a protective shell. It's about mixing that vulnerable thing with the 'nobody's getting through this,'" said Kaufman. Hence, a handful of high-tech parkas lined with plush mink. You could imagine a pretty young starlet wearing one in the car on her way to an event. She waits until the last moment, then whips it off just as she hits the red carpet, revealing a dazzling dress underneath—there were plenty that fit the bill here. The finale group of high-wattage embellished gowns had definite bling factor. Several featured allover crystals that appeared to have been slashed, and the thousands of tiny bugle beads covering a long-sleeved column had a liquid silver effect that lit up the runway.