Katie Gallagher staged her first seated runway show today, in a former convent where soaring stained-glass windows and a flickering candle-filled fireplace complemented the goth undertones of the young designer's work. The runway format highlighted surprising design elements, such as an apparently simple—albeit perfectly drapey—raglan sweatshirt that turned out to be entirely backed in sheer chiffon. Gallagher abandoned her usual heavy use of leather this season in favor of slippery tech nylon and silvery gray faux fur, which she combined in oversize bombers with contrasting pockets and collars that were among the show's strongest pieces. Along with those bombers, ponte crop tops and leggings gave the moody collection some sportiness, while open-necked French terry sweatshirts paired with arch-hemmed skirts lent it all some louche sophistication. (Paired with wet-shine hair, those looks couldn't help but recall the sexy noir vibe at Prada last February.)

While it was nice to see Gallagher branching out, menswear-inspired pieces like tab-front trousers and crisp shirtdresses seemed to push her into a more conservative corner. Gallagher's many textures of black were accented with pieces and panels in red flocked netting, as well as droopy hair bows and oxblood lips. But what really shined—literally and figuratively—were those tech nylon pieces, where her experimentation paid off.