More color. More Swarovski crystals. Marco de Vincenzo is in a happy place this season, and you didn't have to search hard for a reason why. The designer's name was in the headlines today; according to reports, LVMH is on the verge of announcing its minority investment in his fledgling label. De Vincenzo has been obsessed with texture and pattern since he got his start on the Milan runway five years ago. That hasn't changed. Here, though, his layering had a bold new confidence, a quality he attributed to more extensive fabric research than usual. "Nothing is in its natural state," he said backstage, pointing out embroideries, cutouts, and those tiny crystals. A laser-cut jacket lined with a holographic Lurex material over a shimmery plaid dress over a rainbow-effect pleated miniskirt is but one example of the zest with which he approached the collection. But it didn't have anything on a snap-front coat and shirtdress in matching striped Lurex.

Occasionally, de Vincenzo's tendency to add on got the best of him. Embroidered diagonal lines and circles were too much of a good thing on a brushed plaid coat. A clingy color-blocked ribbed knit dress, by comparison, was subtly fabulous. It wouldn't hurt for him to add more pieces like that one next season—they'd give the collection a different dimension. But we don't begrudge him his enthusiasm for his project. "It took a long time to figure out who I am as a designer," he said beforehand. Now, with the LVMH investment, the world is watching.