"I think some of the new ballerinas are the new style stars, like Maria Kochetkova from the San Francisco Ballet," designer Michelle Smith said backstage before Milly
's Fall runway show. A bold statement? Perhaps, considering the relatively niche-y spotlight even principals enjoy. But Smith's latest offering was an appropriately elegant, movement-filled tribute to dance. Models floating down the catwalk amid clouds of cream-colored Mongolian lamb fur were more effective than the winking nods, such as a blush tulle maxi skirt. The fabrics were all suitably opulent, from a knitted rabbit fur to an almost liquid chevron fringe and a shockingly metallic (and undeniably pretty) foil leather. There were also dense paillettes. Even a paper-bag trouser had a certain life to it, thanks to the subtle addition of Lurex to a staid navy twill. Laminated ebony tweed was particularly lovely, seen in a stunning fur-trimmed cape jacket and an oversize coat that no doubt had an air of off-duty dancer to it. Less successful were propositions like mille-feuille circle skirts or a strapless fringe-covered jumpsuit. All in all, though, there were certainly a few ovation-worthy looks that should have fans hungry for next season.