Has Marios Schwab
been reading Rachel Kushner's The Flamethrowers
? If so, he wasn't copping to it after his show today. But his new collection did seem to have Reno, the built-for-speed young heroine of Kushner's novel, as its muse. There was a bit of a moto theme—sharp-looking bombers and short leather miniskirts that seemed to have been pinned together at irregular angles—while a clutch of bracingly pretty bustier dresses trailed lengths of chiffon reminiscent of exhaust or airplane contrails. What Schwab did cop to backstage was an interest in "interrupting" the romance of his clothes with some realism, and vice versa, and the most intriguing of his looks here made that confrontation most explicit. Filmy long chiffon dresses in white and navy, for instance, were topped with taut black frocks. Rather matter-of-fact short dresses seemed to fall into a daydream at the shoulder, with soft asymmetrical knit attachments. This was a rather odd collection, but it grew on you—in particular, the pieces with naive crystal embellishments. In a conscientious, nonarbitrary way, Schwab seemed to have caught his clothes in the process of transforming. Much like The Flamethrowers
, this was a coming-of-age story.