Massimo Giorgetti is a connoisseur of clash. His boat rose with the tide of street style, and like the girls who get snapped outside the shows, he lived by the rule "the zanier, the better." When the first sweatshirt dress hit the catwalk to Björk's caterwauling, it looked like the new Fall collection would be more of the same. As full-on as always, its front was printed with a black-and-white image of a model's face, while the back was cut from an orange Gerhard Richter-inspired silk cloque.

Something shifted as the show progressed, though. Restraint is not exactly the word, but Giorgetti did pull back a notch or two. Take the Prince of Wales Crombie coat with the camel-and-red color-blocking on the hem. In MSGM world it qualified as positively staid. You can't say the same thing about a purple-and-green-floral brocade trench, top, and pants combo. But "a total look," as they call it in the business, does qualify as news from a designer who is so closely identified with mix-and-match. Another surprise: a gray wool coat, blue cotton button-down, and camel patent-leather skirt—it was 100 percent print-free. It was good to see Giorgetti stretching himself here.