Michael van der Ham has a signature look, but he clearly recognizes the risk in staying static—he really pushed himself today. His trademark appliquéd collage was still there, but instead of appliquéing on top of the garment, the technique came through as a cloud-like woven print. An achingly beautiful, dense black Italian cotton lace dress had an extraordinary jeweled hemline that was slashed and left hanging for an irresistible detail. The lace was inspired by an illustration from Van der Ham's reference this season, the late, great 1960s magazine Intro.

That split-hem technique was used on a series of skirts and blouses to stirring effect, as was frayed chiffon appliqué. Cashmere intarsia and honeycomb pieces were also crowd-pleasers. Details abounded, but they were used fluidly: There were net overlays, bow details, and layered chiffon. The colors were vivid. Bright citrus and pinks will certainly stand out during gray fall, and the designer said he was thinking of his large clientele in hot-weather countries who demand color.

Van der Ham worked with velvet, but rather than do a top-to-toe look, he mostly used it on bodices and sleeve details. It also formed part of his most jaw-dropping look: a dove-gray lace dress with a beautiful double-layered velvet shoulder and a silk chiffon hem detail—the one that seems likely to generate a wait list.