February 19, 2014 Milan
Dell'Acqua has always straddled the shadow zone between prude and prurient. A sense of pent-up passion infuses everything he does. Here there were instances of wayward slouch, see-through brassiness, and the single-shouldered hussy. But Dell'Acqua has always balanced his bad girls with a strong, masculine element: today, a loden coat, a khaki sweater, gray flannel pants, dour cardigans. A sequined top and feathered skirt were weighted with a man-tailored flannel coat. Think, for a moment, about the implications of such an outfit. That signal was amplified by the peculiar harnesses that were thrown over a lot of the outfits.
The story that Dell'Acqua was telling here might have been the time-honored fashion tale of dominance and submission. It's one he's long been fascinated by, a fact he reminded us of when he closed the show with his signature track, Pat Benatar's "Love Is a Battlefield."