Ingrid Caven, the German actress and singer who was briefly married to Rainer Werner Fassbinder, leaned over in her seat tonight and said, "I think Olympia is the new Vivienne Westwood." That's a hell of a compliment, but Caven was right on one count. This season both Dame Viv and Olympia Le-Tan did jackets with heart-shaped lapels. Le-Tan also appliquéd a heart onto the bum of a pencil skirt. Beyond that, the analogy's a stretch, but Le-Tan does give you the sense that she's doing her own thing outside the conventions of the fashion system.

Tonight's was a fun show, built around the idea of magic and making the most of her father Pierre Le-Tan's whimsical artwork. The models emerged from a giant top hat that he drew for the occasion, and his illustrations of playing cards and bunny rabbits featured on her clothes. The cards were especially charming on a fitted long-sleeved sheath.

Le-Tan hasn't moved completely away from the Lolita-isms she tends to favor (see the angora cardigan and mini-crini), and the way she embraced the Playboy Bunny won't appeal to every woman. But elsewhere the workmanship looked finer here than it has in the past. There was a new sophistication to a puff-sleeved, "abracadabra"-embroidered blouse worn with a ruched-waist, below-the-knee skirt. If you want to stack the deck in your favor for a fun night on the town, we suggest her velvet tuxedo and embroidered Queen of Hearts bustier.