Paul Smith channeled Jim Morrison for his men's show in Paris last month, so it was a natural leap to assume he had summoned up Stevie Nicks when a cover of "Go Your Own Way" opened his women's collection. He chuckled in his usual affable way, replying that he wasn't directly riffing on the rock queen so much as her prime period in the late 1970s—a time that predated high street fast fashion, one in which women were forced to be more resourceful about their personal style. In this way, he cut and pasted (figuratively, anyway) prints into new patterns and gave his models the moxie to pull off silk pajama jumpsuits during daytime hours… in the winter.

Those jewel-toned fancy patterns—including stripes, paisleys, and damask jacquards—originated from Persian carpets and wallpapers and gave the collection a seasonless fluidity that was balanced with color-blocked shearling-paneled outerwear, lived-in sweaters, and extra-long evening coats. If the collection skewed more masculine than in recent seasons, it was also somehow more sensual. You could chalk this up to the styling—jackets worn over nothing, and shirts left open down to there—or quite simply the sexy slouch of a low-slung dressy sweatpant. Smith made a point of declaring this collection a personal favorite. It was quite the superlative for a lineup that could prove tough to remember a few seasons from now. But by then Smith will have likely moved on to his next nostalgic muse.