Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear
March 02, 2014 Paris
Paule Ka's founder, Serge Cajfinger, hosted a select group of editors at his apartment today, and not because he hoped they would ogle his Seine-facing windows with a view to the Louvre. He wanted them to understand how his collection of contemporary art helped him paint this seasonís muse: a globe-trotting art advisor. Cajfinger purchased his Manuel Mérida rotating sand disc before Hermès spotlighted the Venezuelan artist's work in its Faubourg Saint-Honoré windows in late 2012. While this factoid isn't germane to Paule Ka's hammered-effect satin coats, it does give you some indication that Cajfinger's interest in art predates its trendiness in fashion. He also smartly determined that art advisors project a more rarefied persona than entry-level gallerinas. So, knowing this, you now have the context for Cajfinger's wardrobe of duchesse satin cocktail dresses; wide, worsted twill sailor pants; and statement outerwear. In eliminating color (save for accents of sapphire blue), he focused on form; and his use of a thick diagonal satin placket was striking in a way that did his muse no favors. The pieces that made no attempt to challenge were the strongest: a navy and black reversible sheepskin coat or a black calf-leather pencil skirt, for example. Paule Ka is the title sponsor of the Young Fellows Ball at the Frick next week. Don't be surprised to see one of the oversize bow-fronted gowns making an avant-première. Beyond that, Cajfinger should not move on from this muse just yet. Not all art advisors (or women with similar style needs) can afford Chanel, but they all need to dress the part.