March 01, 2014 Paris
The risk with hewing so closely to architectural references is that the clothes can neglect human scale and end up in conceptual limbo. Looking at a zipper-trimmed strapless dress with tiered panels, there was a sense that Lourenço hadn't fully reconciled architectural proportions with feminine ones. He was, however, able to convey his vision without compromise on several fully reversible coats. And he did something beautiful with layers of barely-there tulle onto which he tacked rectangles of lamé. The allover sequin technique from last season reappeared atop a printed tortoiseshell neoprene base. As a total look—cape, top, and slim pants—the slick simplicity showcased Lourenço's finessed workmanship.
Finally, the 23-year-old marked today's date along with two random times (23:43 and 14:08) in modernist black typography on a gold foil top. Using it as a time marker, were he to evaluate himself in five years—eons in fashion terms—he would have every reason to remain proud of this collection, conceding only that he could have dialed down the lamé.