February 20, 2014 Milan
Generally speaking, this was a story about military-influenced tailoring: black wool flared sailor pants and crisp white cotton shirts, a peacoat with a prodigious lamb's fur collar, a seductively cut leather trench, plate-buckle belts cinching almost every look. Providing a fluid counterpoint to all that rigor were pleated kilts slung from the hips. A long silk version in olive drab looked smart paired with a clingy, deep-V-neck tee featuring patch pockets on the chest. Cibani's real coup, however, was coming up with the sexiest dress of Milan fashion week so far. Cut from a silver and black crocodile jacquard, it wrapped closed with a double row of buttons like a peacoat, but with its hourglass curves there was nothing masculine about it.