The past few Peter Pilotto seasons have been forceful exercises in silhouette proposition, with one or two key shapes predominating. This time out, the Pilotto runway was all about variety—both in terms of the collection as a whole, and in terms of individual looks that were so visually and/or texturally dense they invited sensory overload. Case in point: The show-opening skirt and sweatshirt in a squishy mesh fabric, which featured two kinds of graphic embroidery and contrasting fur trim. The mesh and the fur were two ideas quickly dispensed with, but the embroidery was a recurring theme, as was the thick black border that designers Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto used to punctuate a good number of looks.

Elsewhere, there were digital alpine prints, ribbed knits in clashing geometric patterns, coordinating tops and skirts with Technicolor mother-of-pearl embellishment, and evening looks that collaged several trippy prints together and were finished with stripes of webbed sport belting. The few quieter looks, like a tonal red pencil dress, were a balm to the eye. But louder pieces were quite effective, too—those ribbed knits seemed particularly fresh, as did the looks featuring the mother-of-pearl. And the cocktail dresses with full skirts slung out to one side will find favor with dedicated Pilotto fans. Overall, the quibble with this collection has not to do with its muchness but with its seriousness: The looks that worked managed to capture a sense of exuberance from excess, whereas the ones that seemed overdone, like the black-bordered coats, came off weirdly grumpy. Pilotto and De Vos should loosen up and let their clothes have some fun.