Paco Rabanne's new designer, Julien Dossena, has been short-listed for the inaugural LVMH Prize for his own collection, Atto, and there was a nice little halo effect happening at Rabanne this afternoon. The École des Beaux-Arts venue was pretty buzzy. Of course, it didn't hurt that Dossena made a smart debut for the heritage brand back in September. Today's collection lived up to the promise of that show. What was most striking is how well Dossena handled the obvious Rabanne clichés and made them modern and wearable.

Chain mail, Rabanne's strongest signature, has a tendency to be heavy and ill fitting. Dossena reimagined it as a net of safety pins. Worn over silk underpinnings, the metal tops and dresses had a cool, clingy drape. The house's iconic tile dresses, meanwhile, can look rather retro, but Dossena ensured that didn't happen when he re-created them as laser-cut leather harnesses and layered them over crisp cotton button-downs and shirtdresses. Of course, a brand can't thrive on statement pieces alone. The designer also had sharp, well-made tailoring: classic menswear trousers that hung low from the hips and skinny pants with white plastic zippers and contrast topstitching. Another key item was the super-fitted quilted leather ski jacket. Dossena said he knew he had to put it in the show when the young women in his atelier went wild over it. And wouldn't you know, a key e-tailer perked right up and snapped its picture when it came strutting down the runway.