"We have some shine, because of the Chrysler Building; not too much, very tastefully done," Pamella Roland said backstage before her Fall runway show. With all due respect to the designer, the sequins that came down the catwalk tonight could have filled that selfsame landmark, such was their sheer volume. Roland was having a thirties moment, inspired by Deco architecture.

A metallic floral bomber and skirt set early on felt youthful and cool; even sequin pants had a certain breeziness to them when paired with a handsome navy jacquard jacket in a geometric print. But even before eveningwear rolled around, the unrelenting glitz had begun to feel fussy and insistent; Lurex, ombré sequins, beaded fringe, lamé, satin, mesh, tiled sequins, and more sequins. Scarcely a look in the bunch went unembellished.

It's no secret that Roland's designs aren't what you'd reach for when popping out to the grocery store, but there was a cloying opulence to this collection that made her Spring offering look positively spartan by comparison. It didn't help that at nearly 50 looks, many felt redundant. While it may have been the thirties Roland cited as her inspiration, it's safe to say that Fall had more in common with the excesses of the twenties.