February 12, 2014 New York
"It's about energy, humor, and speed," Hernandez said amid the backstage crush. "We didn't overthink it; we said, 'Let's have fun.'" Building materials didn't come up, but they did mention that an installation of ceramist Ron Nagle's work at the Venice Biennale was an inspiration point. "It got us on this whole trip," they added. "Trippy" isn't a bad word for a look that combined a crackle-print jacket in orange and black, a speckle-print tunic in acid yellow, and a peachy psychedelic wood-grain miniskirt. Dresses were put together like puzzles from geometric slices of leather and solid and printed wool crepe. Much of New York has gone subdued; monochrome has ruled this week. But not at Proenza Schouler. Molded leather motocross jackets were the rare pieces that didn't have patterns of one kind or another on them.
True, some of the other fabrics will require modification before they hit the sales floor; only a Proenza fan will go for those insulation jacquards. But there was an enlivening sense of experimentation and play here, not to mention a singular point of view. Nearing the end of a long week of shows, it was exactly the jolt we all were waiting for.