February 22, 2014 Milan
Northern vibe though there was, the collection remained identifiably Pucci. The label's familiar prints were front and center at the top of the show on minidresses overprinted with Appaloosa horse patterns and heavily studded in silver. And they reappeared at the end on a pair of chiffon gowns stitched in a gold-thread ikat pattern. Jersey was another house signature, but back in Emilio's day it never draped quite as fabulously as it did on Joan Smalls, who wore a long brown dress that dipped precipitously in the back from crisscrossing gold chains.
In the end, though, this collection's most lasting images didn't have much to do with Dundas' Nordic lineage or Pucci's jet-set past. For all the dressmaking Dundas does here, he has stealth skills as a tailor. A pair of velvet pantsuits cut rakishly in glorious shades of ruby and emerald green put that talent in the spotlight.