A few seasons back, when we were seeing a lot of pajamas on the runway and slippers in the front row, my favorite wisecrack was that for fashion people, it seemed, nothing was more aspirational than sleep. "We're exhausted!" I'd say. "We just want to go to bed!" Well, another fashion week is upon us, and you know what? We're still exhausted. Rachel Comey
gets that: Once again this season, Comey decided against a traditional runway show, in favor of kicking off fashion week with a convivial dinner-cum-presentation, the kind of thing where you can sit back a while, down too much wine, and talk to your tablemates about stuff other than fashion. And Comey's collection, too, evinced the theme of rest and repose—lots of quilting and cozy textures, dropped shoulders, blanket coats, and matching shirt/pant ensembles that had the feel, if not the look, of sleepwear. The most elegant of these was an outfit made of a black and pink matelassé, just the thing for a cocktail party or staying home to watch True Detective
. Other key looks were more formal—a tent dress in a fantastic collage print or a slipdress in an illustrated print, lightly embellished with jet beads. But even these pieces had a sense of ease. You heard it here first, kids: Relaxation is the new black.