Saloni Lodha is one of London's daywear queens, and a rising force in "sell-through" (meaning, many of her pieces sell out at full price—a retailer's dream). Her languid, easy looks with a sunny color palette transition into comfortable eveningwear. There's nothing existential, angst-filled, or modernist with her—no great fashion innovation. Lodha specializes in uncomplicated, upbeat looks.

For Fall, inspired by Fritz Lang's Metropolis and astronomy, Lodha began by showing wearable separates like her standby shirtdress, fluid trousers, flowy jumpsuits, and unstructured blousons. Details were restrained but cool, such as bugle beads on a sleeve that was sewed on vertically, creating a ventricular effect. A fantastic nubby black and red spotted wool coat and a cocoon version in silver Lurex zebra print had sell-through written all over them. So far, so Saloni.

But then Lodha showed that she wanted to push herself in new directions. A looped-wool and silk chubby was extremely glam, and a few very subtle sequins gave an idea of where she was going. Then came the face print, but her take was a Metropolis-esque, alien pixelated print; it was very fashion-forward for this designer. Normally the politest of ladies, Lodha also had one print on a tank top of hands positioned to be clutching the breasts. A double silk georgette blazer with gold disks wasn't quite a full-frontal bling assault, but it was close. Perhaps most striking was the no-holds-barred, high-octane statement dress: a transparent silver and black hand-beaded affair that took hundreds of hours to make. Lodha is usually so focused on affordability that she seemed almost embarrassed to say the cost of the piece—around the $2,000 mark, which for her is astronomical.

Lodha isn't letting go of the perfectly nice day-to-day stuff that pays the bills. Given how good those pieces are, and how much better they're getting, nor should she. But she is moving gently out of her comfort zone, and the results are very encouraging.